Do we need preservatives?

Preservatives are substances that are added to food, beverages, medicine, cosmetics, and many other products to prevent microbial growth and ensure product quality and stability. They do so by killing microbes’ cells and creating the environment where bacteria, fungi, yeasts cannot survive and spread.

Microorganisms quickly grow in water, thus, water-containing (or aqueous) products are subjected to bacterial contamination. Apart from water, bacteria can consume other ingredients of cosmetic products, which promotes their growth. Thus, product preservation is crucial for microbial contamination prevention.

But it isn’t only about what’s inside the product. Millions of microorganisms live on our skin, and every time we touch a bottle of our favorite product, we introduce these bacteria to it. If it wasn’t for preservatives, the product would quickly get spoiled because of the microorganisms that got there from your fingers.

High temperatures and humidity also promote microbial growth. And we often store our personal care products in a bathroom, where they would get contaminated if they weren’t preserved.

Without preservatives your personal care product would get ruined, it would change color, odor, consistency, and of course, you would jeopardize your health.

If you are curious about how to protect your healthy skin microbiome check out this post about over-cleaning.

Preservative-free products

As we have already defined, anything with water among the ingredients will always have preservatives in it. Otherwise, it will just be contaminated with bacteria, fungi, yeasts, and mold.

However, you have probably seen these “preservatives-free” products on the shelves. The thing is preservatives can be masked under other names because there are ingredients, which perform multiple functions. For example, an ingredient can be both fragrance and preservative, both extract and preservative, both emollient and preservative, and so on. 

So you might be buying a “preservative-free product with fragrance” not knowing that this fragrance also contains a preservative. Brands do it to impress you, the Customer.

The only case when a product has no preservatives is when it is made of oils and doesn’t contain water, like our Salve with natural Vitamin E.

Are preservatives dangerous? 

It is important to remember that the Food and Drug Administration does not regulate cosmetic products. The FDA only requires labeling the products, so the customer knows the ingredients. 

Despite all the benefits of preservatives for cosmetic product protection, synthetic preservatives can influence your health in a bad way. Due to their toxicity, synthetic preservatives are added in smaller amounts than natural ones. Below you will find the most common synthetic preservatives that you might want to avoid. 

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Synthetic preservatives you should avoid

One of the most recognizable preservatives is parabens, used in a variety of products with a high concentration of water. Parabens are derived from para-hydroxybenzoic acid that occurs naturally in cucumbers, cherries, carrots, blueberries and onions. But in cosmetic products only synthetic parabens are used. Artificial parabens are made by esterification of para-hydroxybenzoic acid with the appropriate alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, or n-propanol.

According to the FDA, there is no information showing that parabens in cosmetics affect human health. At the same time, several studies proved that parabens, when used in personal care products, are quickly absorbed by the skin, metabolized, and then excreted in urine and bile. Other studies link parabens to endocrine and reproductive health issues, and even breast cancer. Thus, the safety of parabens still needs more research.

And how do parabens affect the skin? These ingredients can lead to allergic reactions, especially on sensitive and damaged skin. Parabens are dangerous for people with an aptitude for eczema, psoriasis, and other skin conditions.

Parabens are often found in hair products (shampoos and conditioners), facial cleansers, lotions, deodorants, and makeup products.

To avoid allergic reactions DermNet recommends looking out for these parabens on personal care products labels:

• Methylparaben,
• Ethylparaben,
• Propylparaben,
• Butylparaben (or just look for anything ending in -paraben),
• Benzyl-parahydroxybenzoate (p-hydroxybenzoate),
• Methyl-parahydroxybenzoate (p-hydroxybenzate),
• Ethyl-parahydroxybenzoate (p-hydroxybenzoate),
• Propyl-parahydroxybenzoate (p-hydroxybenzoate),
• Butyl-parahydroxybenzoate (p-hydroxybenzoate),
• Parahydroxybenzoate (p-hydroxybenzoate).

Phenoxyethanol is phenol derivative, which is used as an alternative to formaldehyde-releasing preservatives. Phenoxyethanol can be found naturally in green tea, but only its synthetic variant is used in personal care products. Synthetic phenoxyethanol is made from the reaction of ethylene oxide, phenol, and an alkali. 

Researches prove the toxicity of phenoxyethanol, is related to skin allergies and eczema triggering. In 2019 the French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products even requested to ban phenoxyethanol in leave-on products for infants and small children due to its toxicity. 

Nowadays in the EU phenoxyethanol can be used in cosmetic products as a preservative up to a maximum concentration of 1%. The U.S. FDA also considers it safe for use in low concentrations of less than 1%.

You can find phenoxyethanol on the labels under the names:

• Phenoxyethanol
• 2-Phenoxyethanol
• Euxyl K® 400 (mixture of Phenoxyethanol and 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane)
• PhE

Can you imagine, that formaldehyde, which is an extremely irritant and toxic chemical, used to be added to cosmetics as a preservative? Studies link formaldehyde to allergic skin reactions, rashes, and eye irritations. Today brands rarely use formaldehyde-releasing products in low concentrations in face moisturizers, shower gels, shampoos, deodorants, body lotion, and nail products. 

If you want to avoid these ingredients, look for the following on the labels:

• Formalin,
• Methanal,
• Methyl aldehyde,
• Methylene oxide,
• Morbicid acid,
• Oxymethylene.

Triclosan is widely used in antibacterial products and can act as a preservative too. In the U.S, drug and personal care products containing triclosan are regulated by the FDA. 

The research shows that when applied topically, products with triclosan can cause mild irritation. Studies also showed that this antimicrobial ingredient alters the way some hormones work in the body. 

Triclosan can be an ingredient in antibacterial soaps, body washes, toothpaste, and other beauty and personal care products.

The most unpleasant effect synthetic preservatives have is when they are added to leave-on products. They are absorbed by the skin and are accumulated in the body, which can lead to health issues bigger than just an allergic reaction. 

Are Natural preservatives better?

Preservatives in cosmetic and personal care products are a must. So when there is a choice to go with an artificial or a natural option, which one will you pick? Of course, it is a personal choice, but if you want to go natural, here are some details for you.

Leucidal Liquid is a very common group of preservatives based on an antimicrobial peptide (commonly used for preservation) originally derived from Lactic Acid Bacteria. The Lactic Acid Bacteria group includes such microorganisms as Lactobacillus sp., Enterococcus sp., and Leuconostoc sp. Lactic Acid Bacteria produce lactic acid and restrict the growth of microorganisms by acidifying their environment. 

Natural preservatives you may encounter in personal care products include the following.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate restricts the growth of microorganisms by acidifying its environment and is perfect for moisturizing, skin/scalp conditioning, and antimicrobial applications.

Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic-based ingredient created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium. It is often used in hair care products, deodorants, and beauty creams.

Lactobacillus (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract provides moisturizing and conditioning benefits in hair and skin care applications. It is effective at preventing the growth of fungi, specifically yeast and mold. 

Leuconostoc/Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract Ferment Filtrate serves as an antimicrobial and conditioning agent, so it is often used in products for scalp and skin problems.

We use natural preservatives Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract in our products.

Here are some other substances that can be used as natural preservatives.

Sorbic Acid is used in both food and cosmetics products. It is effective in preventing mold growth and inhibiting the growth of airborne bacteria on products. Sorbic acid is derived from rowan, or mountain ash, tree berries. Products containing sorbic acid are those for facial and eye makeup, skin care and hair.

Potassium Sorbate is a natural preservative derived from combining salt with sorbic acid. It can be found in certain fruits but is often created in labs for use in green beauty products. Potassium Sorbate is used in makeup and personal hygiene products.

Preservatives and skin microbiome

The skin microbiome is the ecosystem of all organisms living on the human skin. The microbial balance on the skin is delicate and can easily be disrupted. An imbalanced microbiome leads to skin inflammation, irritation, aging, body odor, and skin diseases. Thus, maintaining microbial balance can prevent skin disorders.

Synthetic preservatives aimed to restrict bacterial growth in the products, make the same influence when they get to the skin – they destroy pathogenic and commensal bacteria, altering the skin’s natural defenses. 

Our skin likes to be acidic. The normal pH for our skin is 4.1–5.8. The more acidic is the skin, the less chance for bacteria, fungi, and yeasts to survive in this environment.

Thus, we prefer to add natural preservatives to our products, because they not only preserve what is inside the bottle, but they can also destroy pathogenic bacteria, maintain commensal bacteria, support the balance of the microbiome, acidify the skin, and promote overall skin health.

Summary:

1. Preservatives are a necessary ingredient in any water-containing product. It protects the product from bacterial contamination.
2. Truly preservative-free products do not contain water, only oils, and butter. 
3. Preservatives in the ingredient list can be presented as different ingredients, like fragrance, extract, or emollient.
4. Synthetic preservatives include parabens, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde, and triclosan.
5. Natural preservatives include Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate. 
6. We prefer natural preservatives, because they not only preserve our products, but also destroy pathogenic bacteria, maintaining commensal bacteria, supporting the balance of the microbiome, acidifying the skin, and promoting overall skin health.